Friday, June 4, 2010

Tutorial- Adding a V-Neck to a Straight Neckline, Hitchcock Sweater

#1- Pin the front to the back at the desired shoulder width, and sew the shoulder seams (if it's not done already). Locate the center front of the sweater neckline, and place a pin at 1" below the desired v-neck depth (that 1" will be the ribbing band)

#2. For the back neckline shaping, fold the back neck opening in and down 1" at the center. Ease the curve to the shoulder seams, and pin in place.

#3. Sew the back neck facing down.

#4. Angle a ruler from the front shoulder seam to the v-neck pin. Mark that line with pins.

#5. Repeat with the other side of the v-neck. Use highly contrasting waste yarn and sew along those lines. Those lines will become the new fold line, where the neckline band stitches are picked up.

#6- Zig-zag stitch 3/4" away from the contrast stitching for the new steek reinforcement lines. (or use whatever steek reinforcement method you prefer).
#7- Cut along the new steek reinforcement lines.

#8- Fold the v-neck steeks in and tack down. Note that you will not be able to fold the new steek in at the v-point until it is clipped (later).

#9. Using a 16" circular needle, pick up stitches around the neckline along the fold (removing the contrast yarn as you go). Pick up 1 stitch for each stitch around the neckline, place a marker just before the V-neck point, pick up 1 st in the point, place a marker, continue around neckline, join. Work neckline K1 P1, and K the center st (between the markers). Every other rnd, dec 1 st on either side of the center st. Work ribbing for 1", then BO in patt.
#10- After knitting the neckband, carefully snip the V-neck point steek fabric to within 1 st of the band (just like you would do if you were sewing on woven fabric). Use yarn or thread to secure the cut stitches and prevent raveling. Tack down.

#11- Inside view of the finished back neckline.

#12- The finished v-neckline!


Geek Knitter said...

Heavens but that's wonderful. You almost make me want to take scissors to something!

Unknown said...

That looks SOOO scary. Thanks for the detailed instructions.

Monica said...

that's incredible!!

Unknown said...

I dont understand cos I thought you only cut a steek vertically "between" the v stitches and decrease either side. And never cut across stitches... are there no rules... this looks too easy... I never understand folding the steek under creating all that extra bulk. ..
Cheers Edward

Kathleen Taylor said...

Edward, traditional steeks are usually vertical, but there is no rule that says you can't cut any direction you want to cut. The main worry is preventing raveling. The knitting police won't come and take away your needles no matter which way you cut.

Steeks create bulk, that's the nature of the beast. I can live with it, but not every project or yarn works well with the technique.

Thanks for your comment!

loopylouise said...

This was exactly what I needed to stop my ugly (on purpose) Christmas jumper from strangling me! I did felt the cut edges a little out of an abundance of caution but this was perfect. Thank you so much for putting out into the world.