An alert knitter let me know of omissions in the Worsted Weight and FingeringWeight Afterthought Heel Socks, and that the toe decreases are misplaced in The Big Book of Socks.
The instructions for each should read:
Round Worsted Weight Afterthought Heel Sock
-page 31
Add to Toe Instructions: Decrease as for the heel.
Next Rnd Heel Division should read:
K 12(18, 22, 24, 26, 30), sts, place marker, K to end of rnd.
______
Round Fingering Weight Afterthought Heel Sock
-page 32, 33
Page 32 Next Rnd Heel Division should read:
K 18 (22, 26, 30, 32, 36), place marker, K to end of rnd.
Page 33, Add to Toe Instructions: Decrease as for heel.
_____
My abject apologies for the errors and omissions.
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19 comments:
I've knit two pair of socks from your book, and they have been too small. The sizes of the finished sock, and where we are told to stop before the toe, doesn't equal the final size. Page 50: finished length size 7-8=91/2". Instructions say to stop at 6" for size 7-8, star toe is 2" that equals a finished size sock of 8". I spent alot of time making these socks, and they are useless. The first time I had to take the toe out and add inches onto the foot. A year later, I didn't make the corrections in the book, and the socks are too small. I'm very disappointed. It's not my gauge, since all the measurements are to gauge. I don't know how anyone can make socks with these patterns, unless they are aware of the measurement problems. I'm very disappointed with this book.
I'm sorry that you've had trouble with the patterns. I don't know what advice to give you. I wear a size 7-8 shoe, and for my own socks, I always knit a 6" foot (which is measured after the heel is finished- the 6" does not include the heel), and then a star toe (usually the sock is knitted with 60 sts for fingering weight yarn, though I use 56 sts) and the socks always fit me.
The directions on page 50 say: Work even in Stockinette st until foot measures FROM HEEL: Women's size 7-8: 6". This pattern is for the short row heel sock. I've never done a pattern that was measured after the heel was finished. That isn't made clear in your directions. I measured from the heel. The gusset heel says from gusset edge. The measurement on the short row heel would have to be from the heel. There needs to be some kind of clarification.
I'm sorry that was confusing to you. All of my patterns (in this book, and in all of the places where my sock patterns have been published) measure the foot after the heel, and use that same style of wording.
I'm glad that the mystery has been solved.
I've put the socks, doing two at a time, back on the needles. At least I don't have that much to correct. I've made a note in the book. Maybe you could clarify that on your corrections page. Measure from the heel closest to ribbing, or something like that. Thanks for your prompt responses!
I will be happy to make note of that under the Errata section here on the blog.
Thanks for pointing out the confusion. Good luck!
I consider myself an experienced knitter and I've knit many pair of socks in the past and have seem to have forgotten how to do so on the heel and gusset. My sizes have been way off as well and I've had to adjust every pattern worked thus far. On 1 of the patterns found on page 37 it refers you to the 16 flap and gusset heel, which than refers you to the 40 st flap and gusset. I cannot for the life of me figure out how this can even work when there's only 36 stitches to begin with. I had recommended this book to someone, and than after all the issues I had called them back and immediately un-recommended the book.
When the instructions say to work *as for* the 40 stitch heel, that means to work in the same manner as, not with the same number of stitches. In other words, it means to decrease in the same way- working one more stitch before the heel turn stitches on each row (for a flap and gusset heel) until you work across all of the stitches.
Hi there, my son designed his own socks, and I'm knitting them from the worsted round afterthought heel pattern. He is size 1-2 child's, which is omitted in the first column, page 31 (two places). Could you please clarify? Thanks!
You are right- the Child Size 1-2 lengths are missing from the pattern. I'll let the publisher know so that the next edition of the book will have that included.
The Youth Size socks are all worked with 42 sts. The Youth size 1-2 cuff should be 3 1/4" long, and the foot should be 4 1/4" long.
I am sorry for the confusion.
Hi Kathleen,
I understand that mistakes happen. Thank you for giving the corrections! I love your book! I've make two pairs of socks from another book and your book has tons of socks in it that I can't wait to make!
Please write another book on toe-up two at a time. Please!! You have the coolest patterns for your socks. As a total newbie to making socks (I knit two dishrags to begin my hand knitting career, then went straight to socks two at a time)your book has the prettiest patterns.
So when are your several new sock books coming out???? Hint, Hint. ;)
Thank you,
Janet
Hi Kathleen,
I love your book! Mistakes happen. Thanks for correcting them.
I started my knitting career by doing two dishrags and went straight to socks, two at a time! Love it! You have the best book of patterns!
Please write more sock books Kathleen, please! Toe-up and cuff-down two at a time would be great!!
Thank you,
brok
Dear Kathleen,
Could you elaborate on your Macaroni Bobble Stitch? I do not understand the instructions for Row 1 and Row 2.
Thank you!
deborah silverman
friday harbor, washington
Deborah- to work the Macaroni Bobble, when you get to the stitch placement, K 2, then turn your needles and Purl those same two stitches, then turn your needles. Repeat those two rows 5 more times. In essence, you're working a 2 st short row, back and forth on those two stitches and then you continue around in the usual fashion until you get to the next bobble stitch placement. If you can knit back backwards, that will save you the trouble of actually turning the needles on the Macaroni Bobbles.
I hope this helps.
One more question about "as for". If you knit two rows (beginning your heel) and then are referred to "as for", do you begin at row 3 in "as for", or row 1? Karen Mayhew
Not really. What it means is to knit *in the same manner as* the mentioned pattern. So you do the first rows as written in the heel size, and then on Row 3, continue in that manner (either working 1 more stitch before the turn, or one less, depending on the kind of heel you're doing), and then continue either working one more or one less (referring to the mentioned pattern will tell you which way to go)on every row until you have the number of stitches required by your specific heel size.
I am so sorry that these instructions were confusing.
I am in the process of working your sampler texture sock on page 86 of the big book of socks. I am making men’s average size. I would like some clarification on how many stitches I should have held for the instep. Confusion is caused by the increase and decrease round instructions. Border 4, men’s average states dec 2 stitches evenly spaced in the first rnd (64 sts). Inc 2 sts evenly in the last rnd (66sts). When I get to the heel setup men’s average only appears to have 64 sts (17, 30, 17).
Could you please clarify.
Thanks in advance,
Cathy
I believe that the Heel Setup is incorrect in the book- it should be 17-32-17, and work the Flap and Gusset Heel.
Thank you for letting me know, and so sorry for the confusion.
The basic adult size fingering weight flap and gusset sock has an incorrect heel setup also. The numbers are 2 short on the instep heels or is supposed to be 30 stars
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